267 episodes

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TrainingBeta Podcast

    • Sports
    • 4.5 • 361 Ratings

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

    TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford

    TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford

    Therapist Tyler Stableford talks with Neely about therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives.

    • 1 hr 37 min
    TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?

    TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?

    Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.

    • 1 hr 11 min
    TBP 251: Climbing Drills for Beginner to Elite Climbers with Matt Pincus

    TBP 251: Climbing Drills for Beginner to Elite Climbers with Matt Pincus

    Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate climbing drills into your sessions, why you’d do that, and which drills to do, whether you’re a novice, intermediate, or elite climber.

    • 1 hr 27 min
    TBP 250 :: How to Stop Your Sugar Cravings Once and For All

    TBP 250 :: How to Stop Your Sugar Cravings Once and For All

    In this short episode, I talk about the incredible sugar cravings I used to have that would lead to regular binges and how I stopped them. I talk about what this taught me as a nutritionist and how I've honed that knowledge into a way of eating that decreases sugar cravings by a LOT.  I'll go over what things to change about what you're eating, when you're eating, and why it's important to make these changes.
    Today's episode is actually a reading of an email that I put out today to my email list. I'm doing a 5-day deep-dive into nutrition this week with my email list, and if you'd like to join that list you can do that here. 
    Join the Email List for Regular Training, Nutrition, and Mindset Content
    I'm also doing a flash sale of 40% off of my Nourish program, which is an online video program that takes you through the process of working with me as a nutrition client and educates you on deep learning topics. 
    You'll learn:
    How much you need to be eating at meals and snacks
    When you should be eating during the day to optimize energy levels, performance, and recovery
    How many grams of protein, carbs, fat, and sugar you should be consuming every day and every meal
    Nutrition 101 on macros, calories, etc
    Primer on how to deal with emotional eating
    What to eat out at the crag
    Which supplements to take, if any
    Meal plans for many different caloric needs 
    Use Code "Save40" at Checkout for 40% Off Program Until Sunday the 29th

    • 14 min
    TBP 249 :: How to Break into 5.11 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

    TBP 249 :: How to Break into 5.11 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

    Alex Stiger describes the skillset, mindset shifts, physical training, and other things that are required to climb consistently at the 5.11 grade.

    • 1 hr 11 min
    TBP 248: Climbing Trip Types and Their Pros and Cons (Projecting vs. Just Having Fun)

    TBP 248: Climbing Trip Types and Their Pros and Cons (Projecting vs. Just Having Fun)

    Last month, I went on a climbing trip where I just let myself do whatever I wanted, whether it was toproping 5.11’s or taking big whips on 5.13a’s, onsighting runout 5.12’s or toproping 5.12+’s. I did what my heart told me it wanted to do and I almost never felt stressed while climbing. It was the epitome of fun, and it was very different than my normal approach to climbing trips where I pick an objective and focus on it for the trip.
    In contrast, last month Alex Stiger went on a trip where she picked a project and focused on it her whole trip. In fact, including her warm-ups every day, she only climbed on 3 routes the entire time she was in the Red River Gorge for I think a 10-day trip.
    Both of us walked away feeling like we’d had great trips and wouldn’t change anything about them. We both had fun, we both stayed true to our goals, and we both felt accomplished at the end.
    In this episode, Alex Stiger, Matt Pincus, and I discuss the pros and cons of each of these kinds of trips as well as a different kind of trip where you’d pick a goal other than sending one route, but the trip would be goal-oriented nonetheless. Perhaps you’d try to do a certain number of a certain grade, or onsight a certain grade.
    We talk about different trips we’ve gone on and what we learned from each, how each left us feeling at the end, and why Alex and I chose to have the trips we just did. This is a bit of a meandering discussion between climbers who are also friends. There’s no real “training” advice in here – just a lot of insight into how each of us operates, where we are in our lives regarding climbing, and how we try to make our experiences as positive as possible.
    I hope you enjoy it as much as I did 🙂

    • 1 hr 19 min

Customer Reviews

4.5 out of 5
361 Ratings

361 Ratings

Richie901111 ,

OG Training Podcast

Love to listen to Neely and Alex chatting. Lots of good info.

JT123@@ ,

Psychobabel

Unlistenable…Psychobabel as of 2024

james.cranston ,

One of my favorite podcasts I listen to!

I’ve been listening to The TrainingBeta Podcast since it’s beginning, and it’s easily the most listened to podcast for me.

Neely and her team do such a good job curating the best guests that showcase the highlights of climbing, from top-level climbers, nutritionists, strength and conditioning coaches and athletes, and so many other people that have a positive addition to the sport. Neely does a fantastic job asking pointed questions that bring out critical dialog from her conversations with guests.

From this podcast I learned that there’s so much that goes into climbing well, from a nutrition, training, and psychological perspective.

A huge amount of my progression as an athlete in climbing can be attributed to TrainingBeta and the podcast - thanks again for this great resource!

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